Bob Mackie, the costume designer whose fearless and glittering creations helped define the public image of a generation of superstars, has died at the age of 87. His publicist confirmed he died of pneumonia on Monday in Palm Springs, California.
Known as the “sultan of sequins,” Mackie was the creative force behind some of the most memorable and daring looks in entertainment history. For over five decades, he dressed a pantheon of divas, including Diana Ross, Tina Turner, Liza Minnelli, and Carol Burnett. But it was his decades-long collaboration with Cher that cemented his status as a master of spectacle and a hero to the LGBTQ+ community.
His official Instagram account noted, “He lived his 87 years to the fullest, fulfilling his dream of being a Fashion and Costume Designer, which is all he ever wanted to do. His genius and extraordinary designs will live on forever.”
A Partnership in Life and Design
Mackie's career began in the early 1960s, sketching for Hollywood costumers, including for the skintight dress Marilyn Monroe wore to sing “Happy Birthday” to President John F. Kennedy. A pivotal moment came when he was hired to work on “The Judy Garland Show,” where he met Ray Aghayan, who would become his lifelong creative and romantic partner. The pair won the first-ever Emmy Award for costume design in 1967. They remained together until Aghayan’s death in 2011.
Mackie also experienced profound personal loss. His son, Robert Gordon Mackie Jr., a makeup artist, died from AIDS-related complications in 1993, a tragedy that connected him to a period of deep pain within the queer community.
The Architect of Diva Glamour
Mackie’s philosophy was simple but powerful: “A woman who wears my clothes is not afraid to be noticed.” His designs were anything but subtle, favouring beads, feathers, and sheer fabrics that celebrated the female form and commanded attention.
His work with Cher produced a string of unforgettable fashion moments. From the barely-there gowns on “The Sonny & Cher Show” to his concert tour creations, Mackie helped shape her image as a bold and unapologetic icon. Perhaps most famously, after Cher was snubbed by the Academy for her role in “Mask,” Mackie designed her 1986 Oscars outfit: a black, beaded two-piece with a towering feathered headdress. It was a masterclass in defiance and remains one of the most talked-about red carpet looks of all time.
For Carol Burnett, he designed the entire wardrobe for her 11-season variety show, including the legendary “curtain rod” dress for a “Gone With the Wind” parody, a piece of comedic genius now housed in the Smithsonian.
Tributes have come from across the entertainment world. Sir Elton John, for whom Mackie also designed, wrote, “He loved glamour like I love glamour, but more than anything, we shared the same sense of humour and had so much fun together.”
A Lasting Influence
Though he launched a ready-to-wear collection in the 1980s, Mackie always identified as a costume designer. “I have gotten a lot of notoriety from designing glamorous clothes but I never really wanted to be a fashion designer and I still don’t, really,” he said in 2002. “I consider myself a costume designer.”
His work, which earned him nine Emmy Awards and three Oscar nominations, has influenced countless designers and drag artists. His vision of unapologetic glamour, his celebration of the spectacular, and his role in crafting the looks of beloved gay icons ensure his legacy will continue to sparkle for years to come.
